In Rome Now

For centuries, Trastevere was a working class neighborhood, a bit rough, but authentically Roman. Sometime in the mid 1970's it began to be noticed by artists, musicians and even film stars, and the slow but steady gentrification began. Today, many of the old shops and restaurants have been replaced by wine bars and art galleries, and stores that may once have sold wine by the jug now sell jeans by Dolce e Gabbana.
Trastevere has become a destination for nightlife, restaurants and not least, shopping. Its labyrinthe of medieval streets are dotted with some of the most interesting boutiques in Rome.Testaccio, just across the river, still maintains much of its old working class flavor. But it has gotten dangerously chic in the past few years, largely due to the plethora of night spots that have opened there along with a sprinkling of new restaurants and shops.

Altrove
The shop’s name means “elsewhere, and its wares have been collected from nearly every continent. It’s fun to spend an hour pawing through the racks and shelves of this eclectic shop. Ask to see the inside-out fur coats with intricate work on the wrong side, and to look through the drawers full of jewelry.
Via della Luce 35b

Boccanera
Shoes with designer labels like Prada, Dolce and Gabbana and Hogan in a spacious store that takes up half a block on a street leading to the Piazza Testaccio market. It’s an unlikely address for shoes you’d expect of find closer to the Spanish Steps, but the selection is large, the service is good and it might save you a trip into the crowded center of Rome.
Via Luca della Robbia, 36 (Testaccio) tel. 06 575 0847

The Butcher
Sandwiched between two butcher shops, this one actually sells casual clothing for men and women —jeans t-shirts and funky jackets with designer labels as well as funky footwear.
Via Manara, 9

Capitolo Primo Atelier
This elegant Rome shop carries its own unique line of cocktail and bridal wear, and has recently expanded to include a line of day wear, simply and beautifully tailored. Via L. Manara, 58. tel. 06.5813949

Joseph DeBach
You won’t find a more unusual shoe shop anywhere. DeBach, a native of Tripoli who now lives and works in Rome, makes fantastic clogs, sandals and wedgies for men and women. Leather is stamped with comic strip art, metallic patterns, who knows what. Heels are made of iron in unlikely shapes- curves, curlicues, spokes. As much a gallery of shoe art as a store. Check it out for the eye candy value if nothing else. Vicolo del Cinque, 19 Open evenings only from 7:30 pm

Fabrizi
This is the place to find really fine Italian leather goods in snakeskin, crocodile and calf. Exquisite purses and accessories, as well as a collection of interesting jewelry. Family run since 1954.
Via della Lungaretta 98 tel 06 580 3739

Studio Forme
Unique glass lamps, dishes, vases, sculptures and architectural elements fill this atelier, where you can find gifts for friends, or for yourself, and order something magnificent for a home. They collaborate with architects and designers.
Via di Santa Cecilia 30 A/B tel 06 581 2127 www.studioformeroma.it

Fuori Orario
This funky shop caters to a young crowd with jeans, t-shirts and leather jackets, plus the odd funky dresses, skirts and shirts for men and women. Look for labels such as Diesel, Noa Noa, Pepe and Nolita.
Via del Moro 29

Kast
An oasis of cutting edge fashion in the heart of Testaccio, well-stocked with all the latest styles, from jeans and t-shirts to tailored jackets and dresses.
Piazza Testaccio, 33 tel 06 578 0159

Livia Risi Atelier
Risi designs and creates her unique fashions in the style of the traditional sarta. Stop in to browse through her dresses, coats and separates, at reasonable prices.
Via del Vascellari 37 tel 06 583 01667

Pandora
This tiny shop is stocked with art jewelry, handbags and accessories, shawls and glassware, tasteful little decorations.
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, 6 tel 06 581 7145

Pandora della Malva
One of the most beautiful shops in the area, the windows will beckon you inside. Stacks of beautiful shawls and scarves are side by side with Venetian glass jewelry by the Sent sisters, handbags, treasures.
Piazza San Giovanni della Malva, 3 tel. 06 581 3406

Sartoria Scale Quattordici
Nearly everything in this shop is made in the adjoining atelier using exquisite fabrics, and a design sensibility often influenced by the Far East. The place in Rome for custom-fitted, elegant clothing, with a devoted clientele.
Via della Scala, 14 tel. 06 588 3580

Sharm
Egyptian brothers run this little jewel box of a shop, carrying really beautiful and unusual designs. Our favorites are the necklaces strung from combinations of colorful semi-precious stones in new and interesting ways — amethyst with peridot, red coral with pearls. Much of the jewelry comes from Indian sources. They also carry a collection of stunning handbags, embroidered and bejeweled, the work of an Egyptian designer, and a handful of wonderful scarves and shawls. They have expanded selling Egyptian and other ethnic goods at stores up and down the street, and they have a new store in Via dei Coronari, selling jewelry and purses.
Via della Scala, 70 tel. 06.583 34477

Shop Trastevere

Temporary Love
This recently opened boutique calls itself the bridge between art and fashion. The clothes are all made by contemporary designers, all with a touch or more of whimsy. It's a great place to shop for style conscious young girls, but there's also something for the grown up woman who likes a touch of unqiue style and humor in her wardrobe. We are wild about the hand-stenciled leather tote bags (€220), great at any age.
Via di San Calisto 9 (just behind Piazza Santa Maria in Tratsevere)
tel 06 583 34772

38 Leopardo
Jessica Harris, a native of Chicago, opened her little shop in a quiet corner of Trastevere. She calls it a "modern take on a classic atelier." She makes and designs the clothing and accessories, using vintage patterns and inspiration. It's a must for those who like to dress in a quirky, personal style. Custom orders are available.
Vicolo del Leopardo, 38 tel 06 454 35476

Urban Tales
A spacious shop offering a select range of clothing for young men and women, from gym wear to business suits, all beautifully cut, but with a bit of an edge.
Via dei Fienaroli 21/A tel 06 583 01130

Verso Sud
Most of the choices in this small Rome shop are a well-edited selection from the Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti and Alberto Biano lines, as well as a sampling of coordinating shoes and accessories. From casual looks for everyday, to party dresses.
Via San Francesco a Ripa, 168 tel 06.583 33668

Victory Outlet
With shops for both men and women, Victory carries fashion-forward labels, such as Marithé et François Girbaud. A great source for of-the-moment casual wear and accessories.
Victory Men's Outlet Piazza San Cosimato, 10
Victory Women Via San Francesco a Ripa, 19 (Trastevere)