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Rome Restaurants: PIAZZA NAVONA
The Best in Rome

Ristorante Montevecchio
This charming Rome restaurant has been in the same quiet little piazza for years. But in the past few months it has come under new management . The owners pride themselves on serving the freshest fish possible. We were told that if nothing caught that morning was available, they'd simply serve meat, instead. Do not fail to discover what this chef does with a carpaccio di spigola in lemon sauce. Or try the little packets of pasta in a flower of crisp browned cheese stuffed with pears and taleggio (a mild, soft cheese). Desserts vary, but we loved the pear torte piled high with whipped sweet ricotta. The lovely outdoor patio makes a pleasant spot for lunch or dinner on a warm night. €€€
Piazza Montevecchio, 22a tel 06 686 1319 Closed Mondays.

Il Baffetto
Romans and foreigners with up-to-date guidebooks line up outside this pizzeria, but the wait is short and well worth it. The price is low and the quality superb. Thin-crust, classic Roman pizza comes straight from the forni a legna (wood-burning oven) with almost any combination of toppings you can imagine. If pizza isn’t your fancy, there are other offerings on the menu, and for dessert, don’t miss the panna cotta fatta in casa (a caramel pudding made on the premises). €
Via del Governo Vecchio, 114 tel. 06.686 1617

Hosteria dell’Orso
One of Rome's finest restaurants. Make reservations well in advance here, and be prepared to enjoy an unforgettable, if expensive meal. The hosteria has a long and colorful past. It was a hostel for pilgrims in the middle ages, and later a guest house, hosting Goethe and Rabelais . In the sixties it became a nightclub frequented by the likes of Maria Callas and Aristotale Onassis. In recent years, it was acquired by famous Milanese chef Gualtiero Marchese and partner Vincenzo Nicastro, who completely restored the building. The entrance to the restaurant is in a tiny piazza at the edge of the Tiber embankment. On the ground floor, there’s a dim and cozy piano bar. When your table is ready, you’ll be led upstairs to the dining room whose windows overlook the river and whose walls are still covered with ancient, faded frescoes. You can order á la carte, but we recommend the various menu di degustazione, which come with appropriate wines for each course. Choose from traditional, fish or vegetarian menus. Or try the inventive “creative” menu, which features an incredible breast of duck with coriander and shitake mushrooms. If you still have the strength after so much great food and wine, you can end your evening in the top floor disco, La Cabala, which is open Wednesdays through Saturdays. €€€€
Via dei Soldati, 25/c tel. 06. 683 01192 Closed Sunday

Osteria del Pegno
In a tiny vicolo just off Via dei Coronari, this charming osteria serves variations on traditional Roman dishes. For example, a raviolone stuffed with ricotta and spinach is topped with a delicious orange sauce. Try the grilled fish and meats, beautifully but simply prepared. Breads are baked fresh on the premises. The décor is eclectic — a collection of old mirrors chandeliers and paintings compliment the ancient architecture. In warmer weather, tables spill out into the street. A find for its friendly atmosphere, excellent cuisine and reasonable prices. €€
Vicolo di Montevecchio, 8 tel. 06.688 07025

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