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The Best in Rome

Side Trips and Weekend Getaways

SUBIACO
Just a ninety minute drive from central Rome, Subiaco, in the Sumbruini mountains near the border of Lazio and Abruzzo, makes a perfect day trip, clear air, good food, and two monumental monasteries covered in frescoes with spectacular views of the countryside. We recommend driving out to Subiaco in the morning, visiting the Monastery of Saint Scholastica, stoppping for a long and relaxing lunch, then visiting the Monastery of Saint Benedict in the aftenoon before heading home, hopefully ahead of the traffic.

The story of Subiaco is inextricably tied to that of the fifth-century Saint Benedict. As a young man from a wealthy Umbrian family, he was sent to Rome to study law. But Benedict was a deeply religious young man, and when he was exposed what he saw as the corruption and decadence of the capitol city, he was so disillusioned he ran off to the mountains, to Subiaco, where he hid himself in a cave. He was kept alive by a sympathetic monk who shared his meager rations, lowering a bit of food down to Benedict's cave in a basket. After three years, Benedict was slowly persuaded to rejoin the world. He became one of the great saints of the Middle Ages, credited with spreading Christianity throughout Europe and founding the monastic movement.
Sadly the old town of Subiaco was severely damaged by Allied bombing during World War II when more than eighty percent of its buildings were damaged or destroyed. But the two magnificent 12th-century monasteries, remain. The Monastery of Saint Scholastica, Benedict's sister who preceded him into ecclesiastical life, is slightly lower down on Mount Talèo. In the fifteenth century, it was inhabited by a great many monks from Germany, who brought with them Guttenberg's press, and so it became the center of the first printed materials in Italy. Tours of the monastery start every half hour, or you can buy a book in English at the bookstore near the entrance, that will take you through the chapels and gardens. Of course, one of the main attractions is simply the view, so breathtakingly majestic and yet so tranquil.
The monastery closes at one o'clock for lunch, so that's your cue to take a break. The monks run a restaurant and hostel at Saint Scholastica, but it's not always open, and there are good restaurants in the town, just a short drive down the mountain.
The smaller, but even more stunning Monastery of Saint Benedict is just a short drive up the mountain from Saint Scholastica. Don't be fooled by the parking at the bottom of the steep hill. You can drive right up to the top and save yourself the walk. The monastery is literally carved into the side of the mountain, on several levels. You will be walked through the rooms, one more stunning than the next, by a guide, who may or may not speak English, but once again, you will find explanations in the English guide book, and even if you don't understand a thing, the frescoed rooms, not to mention the majestic views, are satisfying enough in themselves. You wander through chapel after chapel covered with jaw-dropping mosaics and frescoes painted by an unknown artist in the Romanesque style. The final room, on the lowest level of the monastery, is the sagro speco, the sacred grotto where Benedict hid himself and where he eventually began to minister to the local shepherds.

What to see: 
The monasteries are open from 9 am - 12:30 pm and from 3:30 - 7:00 pm. Vespers are sung at 7 or 7:30 pm, depending on the season.

Where to eat:
The Botte di Bacco, on the ground floor of the little Miramonti Hotel, is a huge favorite of the locals. It has a charming gazebo-like atmosphere, and a garden open in the summer. You'll need a reservation for Sunday lunch, as it's always crowded. Viale Giovanni XXIII 4. Tel 0774 825 029
The hotel and restaurant Belvedere, just one kilometer downhill from the monasteries, has a lovely garden with a panoramic view that makes it a popular site for weddings. If you decide to stay the night the rooms are very simple but they look out over the mountainside. Via dei Monasteri 33. Tel 0774 85531

What to buy:
The monks, who are self-supporting, offer an array of jams, honey, liqueurs and tisanes in their gift shops.

Getting there:
By car, take the GRA to the A24, get off at Vicovaro-Mandela and follow the signs to Subiaco.

MEDIEVAL SERMONETA
Just a short drive from Rome, Sermoneta makes the perfect day trip. The most interesting and well-preserved medieval borgo in central Lazio, it looks nearly the way it did five hundred years ago. Walking along the narrow, winding streets, up and down the hill on which the town is perched, you'll feel as though you've been whisked back in time. The views over the valley from the town's edge are truly breathtaking, and a view of the sunset is spectacular.

Sermoneta sits atop a foothill of the Lepino Mountain Range parallel to the ancient Pontine marshes. The town has changed little since
its medieval conception, and the enormous fortress of Caetani Castle looms over and dominants the town and the valley below. Although archaeology and literature provide intriguing clues to the events from the tenth to the fifth century BC, the rise of ancient Rome provides certainty to the earlier existence of Sermoneta, then known as Sulmo. Virgil mentions Sulmono, presumed to be Sulmo, in his Aeniad; Pliny describes Sulmo, along with Norba (Norma) and Setia (Sezze) as fighting against Rome, and Livy avers that Sermoneta was the last town to surrender in the ultimate Roman domination of the Latins.

Ruins of pagan temples (see Santa Emerenziana) and a villa have confirmed habitation during the Roman period, when Sermoneta's position overlooking the Appian Way gave it a strategic importance.This importance was enhanced during periods when the Appian Way was flooded and impassable, as one of the oldest roads in the world runs below Sermoneta's hill, a few meters above the plain. It was during medieval times that Sermoneta truly flourished, and the perspective of the town still visible today was established. In the twelfth century the Annibaldi built a castle there, and the two towers still standing today attest to its size .

In 1276 the castle was bought for 140,000 gold florins, along with the town of Bassiano, by Pietro Caetani, of Pope Boniface VIII. The Caetanis expanded the property significantly in the thirteenth century, which is when the castle's impressive Hall of the Barons,72 feet long, was built. In the fifteenth century, Cesari Borgia, a notable enemy of the Caetanis, Pope Alessandro VI Borgia — who had poisoned two Caetanis already — besieged and won the property.They reinforced it so that it became the most formidable fortress in the entire region, second only to Rome's Castel San Angelo.The Borgias possessed the castle for only five years, but made significant impression on it. Its towers, bridges, staircases and elegant mullioned windows were now accompanied by thicker walls and semi-cylindrical towers. The Caetani were able to repossess their property through their connections with the next Pope, Giulio II della Rovere, and held it for the following 700 years.

Onorato IV Caetani, Duke of Sermoneta, took Sermoneta subjects with him in his capacity as Captain of the Pontifician troops, when the Christian fleet destroyed the Turkish fleet on 30th September 1571 at the epic naval battle of Lepanto. The castle's significant collection of arms was unfortunately stolen by French troops who occupied the castle in 1798. Restoration work was started in the XXth century by Gelasio Caetani, an architect, historian and World War I hero. With the death of Lelia Caetani in 1977, the main branch of the family became extinct. The castle is now run by the Roffredo Caetani Foundation, which was created by Lelia Caetani in honour of her illustrious family. Today, the castle hosts courses, seminars, and prestigious concerts. In April and May it is occupied by restorers
from UNESCO, and groups from the World Fund for Nature. In July, there are concerts in the castle by well-known contemporary musicians and orchestras.

What to see:
Cathedral of Santa Maria; Church of San Giuseppe; Church of San Angelo; Convent of San Francesco; the 12th century Synagogue, now a private residence.

Where to eat:
Il Mulino, Piazza Cauto, tel 0773 318303
On a tiny street in the historic center, in an ancient building, the restaurant serves typical regional dishes. Their speciallity, "Chicken alla Lucrezia Borgia" is allegedly a topo secret recipe.

Where to stay:
If you'd like to make a weekend of it, and explore the nearby area, Sermoneta has a simple but comfortable hotel, in a restored eleventh century building, reasonably priced at €80-85 for a double room. http://www.hotelprincipeserrone.it
Hotel Principe Serrone, Via Del Serrone tel 0773 30342
A more luxurious is Casa Doull, which offers a beautifully furnished two-bedroom apartment in the historic center, complete with a spacious modern kitchen, a garden with magnificent views and even a pool for soaking or cooling off. http://web.comm-inc.com

Getting There:
From Rome by car: Take the S.S. 148 (Via Pontina), which you can pick up at Eur from the via Cristoforo Colombo. Get off at Latina Scalo - Sermoneta. From Scalo Sermoneta, follow the signs to Sermoneta, which is at the top of the hill.

By train: The Roma-Napoli line stops at Latina. From there, you can take a bus on weekdays only, or grab a taxi to Sermoneta's historic center.

CAPRAROLA
If you’re in the mood for a break from Rome’s hustle and bustle, Caprarola is the perfect day trip, only about an hour’s drive from town. A little known backwater, where the imposing Villa Farnese dominates a Renaissance city of bridges, scalinate andunderground passageways, Caprarola once basked in the regal gloss of the noble Farnese family.
Though little has altered its postcard charm, the town has grown from the borgo that once housed palace servants, to a population of 5,000. In the late 1990’s Caprarola’s original urban design was the subject of study and research at the Prince Charles’ of England School of Architecture.

The old city backs up against the densely wooded volcanic hills of Mount Cimino and edges forward, looming over the Tiber Valley. Although it’s surrounded by territories once inhabited by the Etruscans, the town itself originated only in the tenth century. Before then, any attempt to cross the mountain, was too perilous, covered as it was by an impenetrable forest called the Selva Cimina. And there were terrifying legends of  merciless monstrous forest people.

The Farnese Palace, with its magisterial Renaissance style, suggests the power family had over the region.
Caprarola was but one of the Farnese’s feudal dominions in the region of Lazio known as Tuscia.  In 1504, architects, Baldssarre Peruzzi and Antonio Sangallo,, were commissioned by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese to erect a fortress. The project was interrupted when the Cardinal was called to Rome to be seated as Pope Paolo III in 1534, and construction was resumed until 1559, when the Pope’s nephew, a young cardinal, returned to the area for its strategic location and fresh air. He commissioned Giocomo Vignola in the reconstruction and transformation, expanding the fortress to an pentagonal shaped palace, so impressive, a visit there is worth the drive in itself.

The castle’s Scala Regia, crowned with a dome and covered entirely with magnificent frescoes in the “grotesque style” by Antonio Tempesta,  demonstrates Vignola’s genius for  applying mathematical principles to architecture.
Your Italian tour guide might not explain the importance of the design of the great rooms, expertly stuccoed and frescoed by the Zuccari brothers, Taddeo and Federico, with the participations of other artists of the period,  such as Giacomo Zanguidi, Raffaellino da Regia, Giovanni De Vecchi and Giacomo del Duca, who designed the gardens.  Room after room reflect the circumstances of the Farnese family and the Farnese Papacy in Rome. Borrowing from mythology and classical antiquities, the Cardinal framed his legacy in the Sala di Ercole, comparing his accomplishments to those of the mythical God Hercules. Within the hidden iconography of the Mappamondo Sala, external challenges to Papal authority and Christian ideology can be read.
The formal gardens that flank the Cardinal’s bedroom suites and wardrobe are outstanding examples of Renaissance landscaping and horticultural history. The gardens were planned around spring and winter fruition of plants and flowers.

Other rooms, such as the Sala dei Fasti Farnese provide  further biographical accounts of the life and events that shaped the Farnese dynasty and the papacy of Paolo III. Follow the guide’s directions as he or she invites you to view the spiralstairwell that remains locked behind a secret entrance.This is one more example of the way in which  Vignola utilized space on all five angles of the pentagonal plan. The narrow stairwell, spiraling from the upper to the lower level, was used by the Cardinal’s servants, who were not permitted access through the main quarters of the palace.

The tour finishes in time for you to visit other noted landmarks:
The XVII century Chiesa di Santa Teresa boasts a magnificent Baroque façade and paintings by two great Renaissance artists: Guido Reni and Giovanni Lanfranco.
Palazzo Riario. constructed in 1504  by the Anguillara family, was named after the first vicar of Caprarola. The cardinal’ss tables, Le Scuderie del Palazzo Farnese, also designed by Vignola are used today as offices, cultural and conference center.

For information on tours of the Farnese Palace and other monuments:  tel 0761 645404
or click this link: www.primitaly.it/caprarola

LAKE BOLSENA

The largest volcanic lake in Europe, an easy 100 kilometer drive from Rome, Bolsena, in the the northwestern corner of Lazio, offers an excellent alternative to crowded and expensive beach resorts. You can choose swimming, sailing, canoeing, camping, scuba diving archeo-trekking, cycling, controlled fishing, relaxing on dark sandy beaches or strolling the scenic lungolago along the water’s edge. And when you get tired of relaxing, you can explore some of Italy's most intriguing historical sites. In ancient times, the area was known as upper Tuscia, the center of much of the Etruscan kingdom, with borders touching the Tuscan Maremma on one side and southern Umbria on the other. The lake was formed more than  300,00 years ago from the collapse of a volcanic cauldron belonging to the Vulsini mountain chain. The oval shape left from the eruption filled the basin with water, creating the lake and two islands— Bisentina and Martana—as well as the river Marta.

Archeological documentation of ceramic and textile production housed in the Museo Territoriale date the first inhabitants to the Neolithic period, between 8,000 and 5,000 years ago. The area was a cultural crossroads of Mediterranean peoples who inhabited these territories for centuries. The Villanoviani, the first documented lake dwellers, occupied the area during the Iron Age of the 8th and 9th centuries B.C. The Etruscan population followed, forming trading alliances with the Greeks. After a series of wars with the Romans, the Etruscans  were finally  defeated in about 265 B.C. and their society was incorporated into that of their conquerors. The towns along the lake boast art and architecture reflecting centuries of conquests and the effects of trade:  necropoli, ceramics, artefacts and even palaces from the Etruscan Paleo-christian, Byzantine, Medieval and Renaissance periods.
 
Bolsena
Rising 350 meters above sea level in a northeastern position facing the lake, the town of Bolsena was the site of an Etruscan city protected behind an elaborate boundary wall. Writing during the time of Emperor Augustus, the historian, Pliny, described the Vesentini and Etruscans who lived around the lake. During the Medieval period, Dante cited Lago di Bolsena’s eel production in his Divine Comedy, making reference to Pope Martin IV’s love of food.. “...Purga per digiuno l'anguilla di Bolsena e la vernaccia" (canto XXIV, 23/24)..Bolsena’s Renaissance history parallels Papal personalities, historically associated with likes of Cardinal Giovanni de’Medici, who later became Pope Leone X, Pope Pio II (Piccolomini) and Paolo III (Farnese). 

La Basilica di Santa Cristina at Bolsena traces the city’s paleo-christian history through its architecture. Here you can see the  hypogeal basilica, the Grotta di Santa Cristina, the catacombs, and the primative altar of the 10th century cult of Santa Cristina. The Cappella del Miracolo and Cappella di San Leonardo are associated with the story of a bohemian priest who questioned the actual presence of Christ in the Eucharist. Legend has it that  a revelation during the mass performed in Cappella del Miracolo resolved the priest’s uncertainties. In the 15th century. before heading south to take the papal seat, Cardinal Giovanni de Medici constructed the basilica’s tri-partite Romanesque façade. Rocca Monaldescshi, the  Museo Territoriale del Lago di Bolsena, dating from the 11th century, dominates the Medieval section of the town.

Capodimonte
The picturesque penisola Capodimonte is the gem of Lago di Bolsena. Situated on a promontory facing the lake from a southwest direction, it rises 334 meters above sea level. The irregular morphology of its landscape, with undulating hills, rich vegetation, natural streams and brooks, make it the lake’s most enchanting  town. Capodimonte is an offshoot of the ancient Vesentum, the important Umbrian Etruscan city where three culturally diverse populations (Villanova, Etruria and Roman) once dwelled. The city was destroyed in 280 B.C. but later rebuilt by the Romans. Conquests, invasions, refuge, rebuilding continued throughout the Middle Ages. It wasn’t until the unification of Italy in 1870 that the area saw stability. Today, it’s an ideal location for summer vacationers, particularly water enthusiasts, with a port accommodating both motor and sail boats. Archeological sites include La Rocca Farnese, a massive octagonal monument designed by 16th century architect Antonio da Sangallo the Younger; Palazzo Borghese, now the city hall; and Palazzo Puniatowski, designed by Valadier, the architect who designed villa Borghese in Rome.

The Islands:
The lake's two islands can be visited by buying a ticket for one of the fishing boat tours. Isola Bisentina, which is covered in vegetation, was inhabited in the ninth century by mainland settlers seeking refuge from invading barbarians. The scavo della malta, reachable by foot only through a narrow passageway, offers a fascinating glimpse of the island’s anciet history. Isola Martana, located on the lake’s southeast coast, is smaller and barren but worth a visit for its crystal-clear water and the  remaining ruins of a Medieval port.

What to Do:
Cycling
Cycle Lago di Bolsena  - www.piste-ciclabili.com
Scuba diving
Scuola Sub scuolasub@bolsenanew.it
Egidio 338 9561470 egidio.s@bolsenanew.it
Massimiliano 338 564 1467 max@bolsenanew.it
Sailing
VolereVela organizes sailing tours of the lake islands; Bisentina and Martana.
Tel. 0763 343793
Cell: 328 872 1863 volerevelare@libero.it

SPRING GARDENS

During the Middle Ages in Italy, as well as elsewhere in Europe, convents and monasteries kept gardens where they grew medicinal plants. From these herbal plantings, the idea for more extensive botanical gardens came about. Large sections of the grounds surrounding palaces or great manors were transformed, and the decorative garden became an important symbol of wealth and presitge. In the 16th century, the idea of the University Orto was born. It evolved around the need for medical students to gain a practical and scientific knowledge of plant alchemy. Students were expected to oversee the process of cultivation and gathering before furthering their studies. Today's botanical gardens are museums established for the conservation of plant species. There are several gardnes near Rome, and May is the perfect month to pay them a visit, not just for what you might learn about botany, but for the sheer joy of wandering through acres of blossoms and greenery.

Lake Bracciano: the Gardens of San Liberato
On five hectares of land overlooking Lake Bracciano, San Liberato is one of the estates owned by the noble Odescalchi family, who also own Castello Orsini/Odescalchi in the town of Bracciano. (Yes, it's the castle is the where Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes were married.) For centuries, it was Bracciano family seat of one of Rome's most powerful families, the Orsini. Just outside Bracciano's historic town center, on one of the region’s most elegant country estates, San Liberato encompasses a splendid Romanesque church. Chestnut groves, planted in the 16th century, still extend the distance of the property as far as the eye can see. But the botanical garden didn't get underway until the land was acquired by the Countess Odescalchi and her spouse Count Sanminiatelli. The couple entrusted the design and creation of the garden to the celebrated British landscaper, Russell Page (1906-1985), who began planting in 1964. Less than a decade later, the property was lush with rare trees and imported plants: Canadian maples, Japanese cherry, flowering Asian and Central American liquidambar and parrotie persiche grow side by side with camphor, liododendri and nycee. A section of the garden is dedicated to acid-phile plants, beautiful compositions of camelias, rhododendron, fragrant three-leaved Choysia and black bamboo. San Liberato also boasts a paradisical rose garden with innumerable varieties and colors.
Open Saturdays and Sundays from April 1st until the end of November.
tel 06 9980 5460
www.sanliberato.it

How to get there:
By car:
GRA to Exit # 5 Cassia Veientanna (cassia-bis) direction Viterbo
Exit  the Cassia Bis - Trevignano –Mazzano exit
Drive 11 km in the direction Trevignano on the outer country road called the Settevene Palo for approximately 8 km. This will take you in the direction of Bracciano. At the end of 8km on the right stone arch indicates the entrance to the estate.

By train:
St. Pietro station – train to Bracciano – from train station take the local bus that stops just meters from the San Liberato entrance. Thebus can be long in coming on weekends. If you prefer to walk it's a 6 km hike.

Botanical Gardens at the University of Tuscia
The garden extends across the Viterbese  plains reaching from the last folds of Monti Cimini to the nearby Bulicame, ancient thermal sulphuric mineral waters. The area is rich in archeological remains dating from the Etruscan and Roman eras. It is said to have been a sacred place of worship for the Etruscan people. The Bulicame spring is cited three times in Dante’s Inferno, cantos XII and XIV. Officially inaugurated in 1991, the university botanical garden is comprised of sections devoted to a wide variety of plant species. A large section is comprised of green houses, open to the public, where plants , including a wide variety of African succulents, are cultivated expressly for research and study. Other greenhouses re-create a tropical environment, to comfortably house collections of orchids and passion flowers. The fragranced rose garden includes 250 varieties, and other parts of the garden are devoted to collections of irises and the various species of palm, as well as plants indigenous to the Mediterranean.
Università della Tuscia,  Località Bulicame, Strada S. Caterina (Viterbo) 
Monday – Friday 8:30 am – 12:30 pm  tel 0761 357097
For more information (in Italian) click here and follow the links through strutture to the Orto Botanico
www.unitus.it

The Gardens of Ninfa
Open only a few days each year, the Gardens of Ninfa are a true botanical wonderland. To visit the gardens in May is to be immersed in a world of impenetrable greens — ferns, plants, trees, herbs, and shrubs — among blankets of rare and local species of flowers, a magnificent color palette, an unimaginable range of tints, shades, and fragrances. Ninfa lies to the south of Rome in the province of Latina, resting at the confines of the ancient city of Norba, and butting against Monte Lepini at the north basin, where natural springs produce more than 80 liters of water a second. The history that survives Ninfa takes in many legendary figures, beginning with the earliest documentation when the lands were donated by the Byzantine Emperor Constantine V to Pope Zachary,  a diplomatic power play that placed Ninfa under papal dominance.
In the XIII century, Benedetto Caetani, Pope Boniface VIII, encouraged his nephew, Pietro Caetani to purchase the territory, which was a strategic transit route for marauding gangs of mercenary soldiers entering from southern kingdoms of Sicily.
During the next two centuries, Ninfa was slowly deserted. Internal feuding among Caetani family heirs and malaria from stagnant lake waters wiped out thousands of inhabitants. The re-development of Ninfa began in 1920 when Galasio Caetani began to plant his magnificent garden among ancient and medieval ruins. Spread over seven hectares, it’s a maze-like wonderland constructed around bridges, ponds and lakes. The garden has maintained its sylvan magic, reproducing it’s unparalleled beauty year after year. It makes for a wonderful day trip, a refreshing escape from the city.
Ninfa Gardens,  40 km east of Rome  easily reached by train to Latina Scalo (9km from Latina) From there, bus or taxi service will take you to the site.
Gardens have limited opening days. From April to October, the 1st weekend and 3rd Sunday of each month.

Click here for more information (in Italian)

BIKING AND HIKING

These days, many travelers are adding active week-end retreats to the traditional schedule of  urban sight-seeing, keeping in shape and enjoying the beauty of Italy’s countryside as well its art, culture, history and gastronomy. A trekking or cycling excursion outside Rome can take  you through a network of hillside towns and medieval villages and into the surrounding woods that clear onto lush green meadows and fertile farmland before trailing off into a rural mountain pass. For those who are ready to explore beyond Rome’s historic center, the options are endless.

Fiuggi
A great destination for historical as well as natural treasures, the town rises on a hill at the base of the slopes of Monti Ernici, in the southeast corner of Lazio near the Abruzzo border. The medieval borgo is encircled  by a thick acreage of chestnut, oak, maple, spruce-fir, pine and sequoia forest that extends toward an immense valley of green meadows. In the middle ages the city was structured around the castle that loomed over the landscape from  the promontory.  Several noble Roman families dominated Fiuggi’s flourishing agricultural economy, from the Caetani to the Sforza, to the Borgia, and, finally, the Colonna, who held onto it until 1816. In 1911 Fiuggi’s natural springs were evaluated for the curative elements in the water in 1913 the town became home to one of  Europe’s most prestigious thermal spas. This corner of Lazio is part of the agricultural zone known as the Ciociaria, famous for le cioce, the shoe worn by local farmers in ancient times. It is also the birthplace of Italy’s best loved international screen stars: Marcello Mastroianni and Sofia Loren.

The area has one of the longest bicycle routes in Italy, linking Fiuggi to Paliano, paralleling the the rail line that unites the thermal springs to Rome. A lap of both the Giro d’Italia Tour and Giro del Lazio is often hosted at Fiuggi. From Fiuggi to Anagni to Alatri to the natural reserve of Lago di Canterno, the Fiuggi bike route forms  a loop around the region’s artistic riches and enchanting landscape. The weather is pleasant throughout most of the year, and the hillsides are steep enough to satisfy the most ambitious cyclist. As a bonus, along the trails, you can sample the region’s traditional cuisine; simple hearty and healthy.

Mountain bike enthusiasts go for the rural route, with its many ups and downs, twists and turns. Often recommended for cyclists in training  or anyone looking for a serious physical workout, the route leads towards the town of Fumone and Lake Canterno in the direction of Acuto and Altipiani di Arcinazzo.
Physically challenging, the panoramic itinerary is a spectacular route over uncontaminated slopes covering more than 35 kilometers of downhill cycling with inclines of 350 meters. Almost 800 meters cut through the mountain and the trail remains on the same level before opening onto the vast range. The payoff is the magnificent view of the hills below that spread out onto fields spotted with delicate colors in spring and summer.

Recreational cyclists choose the  bike route that covers 68 kilometers of open verdant fields and  meadows, historic architecture and tour of the area’s Monasteries. The first incline on this route has a maximum of 9% and starts downhill at Passo della Sella  before crossing the high plains area of Arcinazzo

Trekking or hiking in the countryside around  Fiuggi, you can follow an itinerary that immerses you in a deep forest of chestnuts and oak trees girded by the Ernici and Lepini mountains. From Fonte Bonifacio, the trail runs along the Golf Club and the sanctuary of La Madonna della Stella arriving at Lago di Canterno. Starting from the opposite direction, you reach the ruins of the medieval town of Porciano, abandoned in the eighteenth century, which looks onto the panoramic vista of la Valle del Sacco. The route back takes you towards the mulattiera (mule track) of Anlagen. Continuing your journey take in the break-taking panoramic view from Campo Catino. Comb through acres of Monti Ernici’s uncontaminated wilderness. The trail continues over pastures and a thicket of birch trees before reaching the natural oasis of Prato di Campoli or towards the path that rises to the Abbazia of Certosa di Trisulti. This excursion could take around six hours with altitudes varying from 300 to 1,100 meters.

Where to Stay:

Silva Hotel Splendid 
in Fiuggi is part of the Bike Hotel Italian chain, catering to recreational cyclists, tourists and mountain bikers. Guests can return to the four-star comfort of accommodations that offer spa treatments and local cuisine. The bike routes, which begin at the hotel  in Fiuggi is organized around a selection of self-guided multi-level itineraries.  Side trips include visits to  nearby monasteries, castles, Renaissance palaces, artisan’s shops and parks. The Hotel offers complete bike service, maintenance, storage, laundry service for sportswear, emergency medical service and road service pick-up in case of break-down. The hotel sports facilities include tennis courts, swimming and an 18-hole golf course is just five minutes from the property. Minibus transportation is provided from the Anagni-Fiuggi train station.
www.silvasplendid.it  tel  0775 515 791

Albergo Nord Roma
A small, family-run hotel in the center of town, within walking distance of the thermal spa. All the rooms have balconies with views. The restaurant serves typical cuisine of the region. The staff will organize special mountain biking weekend packages in collaboration with the Cellitti Bike Team of Frosinone and Anagni-Fiuggi.
www.albergonordroma.it tel 0775 514223

What to see:
Abbazia di Monte Cassino Corso
Nuovo Italia Originally constructed in the sixth century AD, the Abbey was badly bombed and almost completely destroyed during WWII. The Baroque Chiostro dei Benefattori and crypt are the only remaining original sections.
40 kilometers from Fiuggi  tel 0775 515 791.

Abbazia di Casamari
Rising above the plain between the towns of Frosinone and Sora, the abbey, founded in 1005 by Benedictine clerics of Veroli,  the abbey was constructed in the Gothic-Cistercense architectural style.
50 kilometres from Fiuggi

Anagni
The ancient home of the Ernici, Anagni is one of the most important medieval towns in Italy, boasting the Cathedral of Anagni, which  dates back to the 11th century, and the historic palazzo of Bonifacio VIII, one of the most illustrious popes.
14 kilometers from Fiuggi

Certosa di Trisulti Included on both cycling and trekking itineraries, the town, constructed in 1204 by Pope Innocent III,  is a splendid example of mountain religious architecture.

Parco dei Simbruini A 2 kilometer walk, the park is comprised of four grottos. The Campo Staffi is known as the first subterranean grotto with a  formation of alabaster. Grotta Prosepina  or Grotto Nera, with its black asphalt rock slopes towards Fosso Vardana and accesses the center of the village of Filettino via a suspended wooden foot-bridge.

How to get there:
By car: Take Autostrada A1, exit  Anagni-Fiuggi (75 kilometers from Rome)
By train:Trains leave frequently for the one hour trip  from Rome’s Stazione Termini to the Anagni-Fiuggi station.

Resources:
Bryn Jenkins offers guided countryside walks in the country and lakeside towns near Rome. www.walkinrome.it
For more information (in Italian) about the thermal waters spa www.termefiuggi.it
For more information (in English) about Italy's Bike Hotels www.italybikehotels.it
For biking itineraries (in Engish) www.italybikehotels.it/en/itinerari.jsp

The PUGNALONI OF ACQUAPENDENTE
On the third Sunday of May each year, the ancient town of Acquapendente celebrates the festival of the Pugnaloni, in honor of the miracle of 1166, when two peasants sighted the Madonna dei Fiori, inspiring them to begin the rebellion that overthrew Federico Barbarossa. The pugnaloni are large wooden emblems covered with mosaic designs made from local greenery and flowers. Weeks before the festival, pugnaloni teams begin working on their sketches, which then must be approved by a committee to ensure that the spirit and traditions of the festival are properly observed. Then each group begins to forage the surrounding countryside for the foliage and blossoms needed to complete their work. Dried leaves are carefully glued in place to form the background of the piece. On the night before the big day, flower petals are delicately put in place by the team, working long hours into the early morning. The festivities begin on Saturday night, with the procession of the Madonna dei Fiori. Finished pugnaloni are displayed in the main squares of the town on Sunday morning until early afternoon when the parade begins. A panel of judges chooses the six top place winners, whose pugnaloni will be displayed throughout the coming year. Historic costumes, food, wine and music complete the festival events.
Acquapendente (near Viterbo)
Saturday- Sunday May 15-16
For the festival information page (in Italian) click here.

VILLA D'ESTE
A short drive northwest of Rome takes us to Tivoli, where the natural springs attracted the Romans to build baths, which are still active today, and where Hadrian built his expansive villa. But the main attraction is a smaller villa, the Villa d'Este, whose miraculous terraced water gardens are on the UNESCO world heritage. The villa was built by Cardinal Ippolito d'Este (1509-1572), son of Lucrezia Borgia and Alfonso I Duke of Ferrara, and grandson of Pope Alexander VI. As the grandson of a pope, d'Este had a stellar rise through the ranks of the church hierarchy. (He was made a bishop at the age of two.) By the time he was 41, he was in line for the papacy, but he was elbowed out by Julius III, who effectively exiled him to Tivoli by naming him governor. Ippolito d'Este spent the last twenty years of his life constructing and decorating his Mannerist villa, covering the interior walls and ceilings with ornate frescoes and creating the water gardens, with grottoes, dozens of fountains, statuary, reflecting pools, exotic greenery and fragrant flowering plants. From 1605, his successor, Alessandro d'Este, restored and extended the gardens, with new technological innovations. At one end of the huge gardens, Borromini designed an ornate waterfall several stories high (1650-1670). At the outbreak of the first world war the villa became a property of the Italian State, and during the 1920s it was restored and opened to the public. Restoration of the garden continues to this day. It's a wonderful place to spend an afternoon, or even a full day, although it tends to get crowded on sunny Sundays. A restaurant/café overlooking the gardens is perfect for coffee, lunch or a glass of wine while enjoying the view. If you decide to make a weekend of it, spend the second day wandering the ruins at nearby Villa Adriana, just outside town.
To reach the Villa d'Este, park in the public lot at the center of the town. The entrance to the gardens is just on the other side and the information kiosk in the square will be helpful. You can also reach Tivoli by train from Rome's Stazione Termini, but you'll need to take cab or bus from the station up to the historic center.
Open 8:30 am till one hour before sunset.
€6.50
For the Villa d'Este information page (in English) click here

LA POSTA VECCHIA AT PALO
Luxury hotels don’t normally have the rambunctious history of La Posta Vecchia, on the Lazio coast at Palo, just a short drive from Rome. A seaside oasis with nineteen luxury suites looking out onto the Mediterranean, the hotel is situated on eight acres of exclusive private park that originally belonged to the adjacent Odescalchi Castle. In 1965, Ladislao Odescalchi sold the property, a 16th century carriage house, which once housed a fleet of postal coaches, to J. Paul Getty. Getty set about refurbishing the interiors with 16th and 17th century Spanish and Italian antique furnishings and 16th century paintings and tapestries, Raphael and della Robbia ceramics are among his collection. After Getty’s death, the property was purchased by industrialist R. Sciò and transformed into the luxury hotel and secret hideaway it is today. The new owners have maintained the Getty aura that gives La Posta Vecchia authentic charm.
Rooms all have a magisterial elegance that exudes comfort. Monumental antique headboards oversee custom-made beds dressed in crisp, white linens. Original wood-beamed ceilings bring a cavernous coziness. Bathrooms are tiled or covered in marble with original brass fixtures. Throughout the corridors and public spaces, walls and alcoves are adorned with works of art, marble sculpture, objects and other fineries.
The building sits atop two second century Roman villas,carefully excavated, and now the hotel’s private museum. The space is made available for private celebrations or conferences.
In ancient times, Palo was an important Etruscan port destroyed by the Romans after VI century B.C. Long after it fell to the Romans, the site still reserved its magic. In more recent times Palo has also been the final destination for trains bringing vacationers to the nearby seaside town of Ladispoli, five kilometers away.
La Posta Vecchia offers a conference room, indoor pool, private beach, business center, internet connection, dining, cable and satellite TV, limousine service, 24 hour room service, air-conditioning, free-parking, bike rental, mountain-biking and snorkeling The restaurant accepts bookings from non-hotel clients.
La Posta Vecchia,
Palo Laziale
Tel 06 994 9601 or 06 994 9507
Hotel open seasonally April to mid-November.
www.lapostavecchia.com

CEVETERI NECROPOLIS
About 50 miles northwest of Rome, the coastal highway turns off towards the  ancient Etrurian city of Caere, today known as Ceveteri. Nothing is left of the antique city but just outside its walls lies one of the most intriguing architectural discoveries of the 19th century: the necropoli of Caere, an ancient Etruscan burial ground. As was their custom, the Etruscans built two cities, one for the living and one for the deceased.
Follow a one lane dirt road lined with century old cypresses that leads to a dead end “park” where several acres of tumulo (tombs) contained within the necropolis overlook a bucolic Roman countryside dotted with flocks of grazing sheep in the valley below.
Cemetery’s are not often on one’s touring agenda but Etruscan cemeteries are cultural barometers, revealing the architectural and artistic development from the seventh to the third centuries BC.
 D.H. Lawrence visited the tombs in 1927 and described them as having a “queer stillness and curious peaceful repose”. Lawrence was enthralled with these tombs, as well as others, further up the coast in Tarquinia.
The tombs were set up to replicate life as it had been. For the Etruscans, death was a continuation of life, a state of simultaneous existence and non-existence. The deceased merited everything that had sustained them in life. An intriguing complex of tombs was laid out according to an urban scheme with neighborhoods, streets and piazzas. The tombs themselves are highly stylized architectural structures with distinctive exteriors, often crowned with a tholos, a conical dome or grassy mound of earth girdled at the base in tufo, the indigenous building stone found throughout Lazio. Interior spaces varied stylistically. Some were noble while others were simple and unadorned.
The Tomba dei Rilievi, one of the largest and more elaborate, is covered in sculptured reliefs portraying mythological figures, armor, hunting implements, animals and utilitarian objects. Most have one or several of the following attributes: barrelled vaulted ceilings, ante-chambers, or chambers with built-in resting places. The deceased were laid to rest there, or placed in an open wooden sarcophagus, with a headdress carved into the stone.  Some are furnished with chairs or stools. Remaining artifacts such as vases, urns, jewelry, arms and statues were removed by archeologists and placed in museums. Many objects were taken by tomboroli, night hawkers who pillaged tombs carrying away whatever contents they could manage.
Ceveteri (Caere) rose in the ninth century BC, and in the following two  hundred years it became an important Etrurian economic and maritime power with three iport cities connecting it to the intense trade along the Mediterranean caravan route.
Today, the port cities of Alsium, Cunicum and Pyrgi are the popular beach towns of Palo, Santa Marinella  and Santa Servera respectively.  Ceveteri is only part of the history of an enigmatic population that settled between the Arno and Tiber rivers and whose origins have been disputed and discussed as far back as Herodotus.

Museo Nazionale Cerite, Cerveteri
Open Tuesday – Sunday, 8:30 – 7:30; last admission 6:30 pm
Tel 06 994 1354
Rail service available from Rome, Stazione Ferroviaria St. Peters.
By car, take the Aurelia or Cassia Vecchia.
www.tuscio.info

Visit the Etruscan museums in Rome:
Villa Giulia, Piazzale Villa Giulia (Parioli)
Gregoriano – Etrusco Museum within  the Vatican Museum

ON AN UMBRIAN HILLTOP
When Rome's sweaty sea level summer weather got to us, we headed uphill, and north to Umbria and the Fattoria di Vibio. In Italian, a fattoria is a farm, but despite the presence of acres of olive trees, and a few contented pigs (well-hidden in a shady glen), this farm feels more like a resort. The old stone farmhouse has been transformed into 14 comfortable guest rooms with private baths, a restaurant and an enoteca. There's an outdoor pool with poolside bar, a stunning new spa, which has already been cited for its architectural elegance, an indoor pool, and best of all, a shady lawn with tables and chairs for relaxing over an appertivo and a glorious view of the sun setting over the valley below. For would-be chefs, this elegant farm offers mid-week cooking classes, and for equestrians horse are available to explore the trails. Summer dinners are served out of doors on a covered patio from a Slow Food kitchen, where all the food is fresh and the menu is varied. We thought we'd found heaven.
Fattoria di Vibio
Montecastello di Vibio (near Todi)
Standard rooms from including breakfast and dinner.
www.fattoriadivibio.com
Tel 075 874960 Raniero, the friendly general manager, speaks good English.

To explore in Umbria this summer:

Todi
Just a few minutes from the Fattoria di Vibio, this medieval town is worth a visit for its Gothic cathedral, and the Palazzo del Capitano, now a museum with frescoed walls. For a really thrilling experience, go to Todi for the Italian International Balloon Grand Prix, in July, which coincides with the gastronomy, folklore and music festival.

Where to stay:
Hotel Tudor Palace, Via Maestà dei Lombardi, 13 tel 075 894 2184
Just down the hill from the city gates, a modern, pleasant three-star hotel with a good restaurant and panoramic views.
Hotel Fonte Cesia, via Lorenzo Leonj, 3 tel 075 894 3737 www.fontecesia.it
In a fifteenth-century palace, this hotel is high on atmosphere, with four-star comfort. Located in the center of town, it allows you to explore the city easily on foot. And the terrace dining area offers both charm and good food.

Spoleto
The Festival of Two Worlds, now in its year brings this sleepy medieval town to life. One of Europe's biggest festival, it's two weeks packed with opera, dance, symphony and chamber music concerts, film and the fine arts. This year the festival runs through July 16th.
Spoleto is slightly under reconstruction at the moment, having been a bit damaged by last year's earthquake, but it's still full of medieval charm and mystery. Like most of the ancient towns, it's built on a hillside, so there's lots of walking up and down. Just inside the city gates, there are a couple of blocks of modern shops, chain stores, restaurants and cafes. The further up the hill you wind, the more interesting and old the town becomes.

Where to stay:
Our favorite hotel is the Palazzo Dragoni, a fourth-century palace converted into a cozy hotel. It's at the top of the hill, just a short walk from the Cathedral and the best rooms have walls of French doors looking over the ancient rooftops and across the valley.
Via del Duomo 13 tel 743-222220 www.palazzodragoni.it

Click here for the Festival of Two Worlds schedule in English

Orvieto
Orvieto is only an hour by train from Rome, and a short drive from the Fattoria di Vibia. The city is reached by means of a funicular that goes straight up the side of the hill from the train station. There are many compelling reasons to visit Orvieto. The first is the Romanesque-Gothic duomo (cathedral), one of the most magnificent in all of Europe, dating from 1290. Inside the cathedral, the Brizio chapel is an unforgettable experience. Riveting frescoes by Luca Signorelli (1441-1523) entirely cover the walls and ceilings with images of the apocalypse, heaven, hell and the resurrection. The town itself is famous for it's food and wine. The local olive oil, grains, truffles, mushrooms, garden fruits and vegetables combine to make a unique cuisine, celebrated each October with a "Gusto" festival. Orvieto is also a center for artesian ceramics. Shops near the cathedral sell all kinds of hand-painted works, from inexpensive dishes and bowls, to costly works of art, many of them copies of medieval designs. Underground Orvieto is equally fascinating. The Etruscans built a city into the side of the hill. Excavations have unearthed intricate grottoes with cisterns, caves, frescoed galleries and an olive oil press. Many artifacts from the site can be seen in the museum opposite the cathedral, and guided tours leave from the Piazza del Duomo.

Where to stay:
The Hotel Duomo is a recently remodeled palazzo just around the corner from the Piazza del Duomo. Some rooms have wonderful views of the cathedral, and all are comfortable if simply furnished. It's small with only 17 rooms, and prices are reasonable. Doubles with breakfast start at €90 - €120 depending on the season.
Hotel Duomo, Vicolo Maurizio 7 tel 0763 341887 www.orvietohotelduomo.com.


How to get there:
Driving from Rome, the GRA to the A1 takes you into Orvieto and Spoleto. To get to Todi, turn off the A1 at highway 45.
Trains to Orvieto and Spoleto from Rome's Termini station take about an hour. To get to Todi, you'll have to change trains at Terni, for a total travel time of about 90 minutes. There are no taxis at the Todi train station, so be warned. It's too far to walk up to the town.

Umbria links:

www.elegantetruria.com

www.bellaumbria.net

THE TUSCAN ARCHIPELGAGO
A string of seven magnificent islands between Corsica and Tuscany, facing the coastal city of Argentario. Legend has it that the islands were formed from Venus’ necklace — seven  pearls dropped into the sea as the Goddess surfaced from a deep sea swim. Each island has its own history that linking it to ancient Mediterranean lore, and together the seven — Giannutri, Giglio, Montecristo, Pianosa, Elba, Capraia and Gorgona — make up one of Europe's largest marine parks with varying flora and fauna, granite rock formations, steep cliffs that plunge into the sea from as high as 1,000 metres, bays, coves, sandy beaches and uncontaminated crystal clear waters.

Montecristo is formed from granite covered under a blanket of brushwood. Because of its harsh make-up, the island is uninhabited and has been of interest to botanists and geologists. It was the inspiration for the island prison Alexander Dumas’ classic novel “The Count of Monte Cristo,” In the book,  Dumas  recalls the smell of thyme and broom from his visit to the island in 1842. In the fifth century, St. Maximilian, then bishop of Palermo, sought refuge on the island. For centuries thereafter, it was populated by religious recluses, and pirates, it has been left very much intact and is protected as an national park reserve. It remains one of the most intriguing and least visited among the group.

Giglio, just 18 km off the coast of Argentario is dominated by a Medieval fortress constructed when the Pisan Republic reigned over the island. Its name, not to be confused with the Italian word for lily (giglio) is, in fact, derived from the Greek word for goat (aegilion). The island was inhabited as far back as the Stone and Bronze Ages. Etruscans lost their lease to the Romans who took up occupancy in the third century B.C.. In 805, Carlo Magno donated the island to the monks of Rome’s the Abbey of the Three Fountains. The Medici’s filed in behind the Pisan Republic but the rise in sea piracy and the fierce Barbarossa forced them to vacate quickly.

Elba, the largest island of the archipelago with eight towns, was a favorite among an international novo-bohemian crowd in the 1950s and 1960s About half of the island is a nature preserve. It ‘s only 10km from land with 147 km of coastline. A massive granite rock, Monte Capanne, dominates the island’s panorama. The Etruscans and The Pisa Republic took over in Medieval times. But it’s most famous as the site of Napoleon Bonaparte’s ten-month exile prior waging the 100 day war that ended badly for him at Waterloo. His former residence, the Villa dei Mulini in Portoferraio, is now a  museum. (Napoleon Museum Tel 0565 915 846.) Elba offers a great choice of vacation attractions: country walks, fishing, sandy beaches, scuba diving, sailing, bicycling, gommome (inflatable boats) camping, thermal baths, museums, artisan crafts, wines and regional cuisine.

Of special interest:

San Giovanni Spa
A renowned thermal spa offering therapeutic mud with a high concentration of minerals and organic sulfur, as well as the usual massages, facials and anti-cellulite treatments.
www.termelbane.com

Marina di Campo
A mile of pristine coastline, possibly the best best in Europe. Rent a kayak here and explore.

Rio Marina is a natural mineral museum. The For nearly 3,000 years its 2,000 hectares were mined for heir iron, a practice which continued until the 1980s. Other minerals on the island include, quartz crystal and  pyrite.

Musei Archeologichi
Archeological museums in Mariana and Porto Ferraio are worth exploring.
Via del Pretorio, Mariana tel 0565 9011215
Fortezza della Linguella, Porto Ferraio tel 0565 937 370


Where to stay:
Portoferraio, the largest town on Elba, is where the ferries dock. Stop for lunch, or spend the night at the Villa Ottone, a gracious and characteristic hotel with a good restaurant and a private beach.
www.villaottone.com


How to get there:
It’s  about a ninety minute drive heading northwest from Rome to the ferry landings. Take the A12 to to Civitavecchia, where you’ll pick up the Aurelia to Venturina, Statal, which brings you to Piombino.

You can also take the train to Piombino from Rome or Florence and then rent a car on the Elba side, but you'll need wheels to get around the island.
  
More than daily ferry crossings are available  boat Piombino to Portoferraio, Rio Marina and Porto Azzurra.
Toremar Ferry Line: www.toremar.it
Tel. Toremar Call Center – 892 123
Tel. Porto St. Stefano – 0564 810 803
Tel. Giglio Porto 0564 809 349

Maregiglio Ferry Service: www.maregiglio.it
Porto St. Stefano  tel. 0564 812 920
Porto Giglio          tel. 0564 809 309

Hydrofoil (aliscafa) service is also offered from Piombino to Isola d’Elba. Service runs to Cavo in Rio Marina then continues on to Portoferraio.
Tel 892 123

Marina di Campo Airport offers daily flights from Pisa and Milan.
http://www.elba-online.com/Informazioni/voli/aereoporto_E.htm

Elba link:
www.elba-online.com

LAKE BRACCIANO

Just 36 kilometers northwest of the city in the back hills of a bucolic Roman countryside, Lago di Bracciano has long been a favorite weekend retreat since the time of the Romans and ruins discovered in the lake basin suggest an earlier history dating back to the Etruscans and further to the first neolithic Europeon villages built 5,500 years ago. In recent years, the magnificent castle on it's shores, Castello Orsini, has hosed dignitaries from John F. Kennedy to the Pope, and was the site of the famous Tom-Katy wedding.

The beauty of the lake and the surrounding countryside is breathtaking, and still amazingly wild. The water is populated with swans, ducks, wild geese, cormorans and coot, and gulls and the woods with porcupines, boar, foxes and hedgehogs who venture out after sundown.

Three towns front the lake, all of them originally 15th century lordships. In the town of Bracciano, the Renaissance Orsini-Odescalchi Castle (1470) dominates the lakefront from its promontorial position. Trevignano wa built above the lake and is still protectd by the ruins of the medieval Orsini fortress. The entrance to the town of Anguilara is a tree-lined avenue ending in a towering 16th century gate.
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During the summer months, the lake towns offer a wide variety of recreational activities: sun-bathing, swimming, bicyling, hiking in the surrounding hills, peddle-boat rentals, wind surfing, saling and rowing, horseback riding. It's a great lake for fishing, full of carp, pike, perch and coregone, which is similar to mullet. The lake's beaches, dark and pebbly, are freely accessible to the public, with beach chairs and umbrellas available for rental along the Trevignano strip.

Lakeside Restaurants

Bracciano
Vino and Camino, probably the hippest eating spot on the lake, is a small enoteca facing the piazza entrance to the Orsini-Odescalchi Castle, with a view of  one of its three monolithic towers. . The menu is varied and served à la carte. The spaghetti cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) is, excellent as is the petto di anatra (duck breast) served in season, sautèed until tender with herbs and olive oil, maintaining the flavour of the game. Try the fagioli, (Italian beans), the cheeses and the great selection of wines plus the best pear tart we’ve ever eaten.
Piazza Mazzini  (Castle Orsini-Odescalchi)
Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Mondays. Terrace seating.
Tel 06 998 03 433

Anguillara
Zaira, a charming little restaurant a few meters beyond the city wall, sits in a raised position just opposite the lake. The cuisine, characteristic of the area, includes fresh lake fish and pasta dishes, The profitero (almond pastry tart) is a dessert speciality. meal, A stroll along the point is a pleasant way to digest your meal while admiring the lake’s beauty, watching distant sailboats as they file into the Anguillara inlet. Venture to the end of the point and discover the little house at the end with a magical flower garden. It’s a picture postcard view you won’ t forget.  
Via Reginaldo Belloni 23
Open for lunch or dinner. Closed Tuesdays. Terrace seating.
Tel 06 996 8082

Trevignano
Grotta Azzurra, one of the most popular lakefront restaurants, occupies the lower level and terrace garden area of a beautifully maintained building, which is shaded by giant palm trees and surrounded with pots and beds of planted flowers. Their specialty, fresh lake fish (coregone and lucio) is prepared  grilled, baked or sautèed. Owner and chef, Signora Marcella, experiments with vegetables and herbs gathered fresh from her garden, often presenting new aromatic combinations you really won’t find anywhere else. Top your meal with one of her delicious homemade desserts. Both indoor and outdoor seating areas have spectacular lake views.
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, 18  (Lungo Lago).
Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Tuesdays. Terrace and garden seating.
Tel 06 9999 420

Lakeside Hotels

Bracciano
Villa degli Oleandri is just 200 meters from the banks of Lake Bracciano in the rural neighborhood of Pontevecchio. The complex offers two apartments with private baths for short-term rentals.  For longer vacations, air-conditioned cottages for up to three people with kitchnettes, satellite TV and washing machines are available. A restaurant and public swimming pool are located nearby and a sports Center, tennis camp, mini golf and soccer field  (calcetto) are a short distance away. Horse back riding excursions in the nearby wood are available at hourly rates. Easy access to the battello, a vapour water boat that tours all three lake towns. Tours are available throughout the summer months. 
Via Ponte Vecchio 99
tel /cell (39) 339 482 6849  or 338 752 2289
www.villadeglioleandri.it

Trevignano
Bed & Breakfast L’Amaca
L’Amaca, a charming B & B, is set on several acres among fruit and olive trees, on the outskirts of Trevignano in the rural residential  area of Monterosi. Comfortable and spacious accomodations include  two bedroom suites and a vacation apartment with two bedrooms, bath, sitting room and kitchenette which sleeps six. The garden area is equipped with a barbecue grill. Just minutes from the nearest lake beach, it is an ideal location for vacations of a weekend or longer.
Via Pietro Salvatori, 3 (zona Monterosi)
tel 39 0761 6999 21 or 39 348 341 8590
www.bedandbreakfast-lago-di-bracciano.it.

Hotel Recostano Residence
A stone’s throw from the town center, this comfortable and well-kept residence hotel faces the lake. Rooms are air-conditioned and furnished with telephone, kitchenette, TV, and mini bar. Charming and simpatico owner, Davide Stefanelli has expanded his hospitality to include a beauty salon, physical therapy center, sauna and solarium available at the complex’s adjacent Fitness Center. Underground parking available.  
Viale Garibaldi, 141 
tel (39) 06 999 16000
www.recostanoresidence.it

And an educational spot for the whole family:
Museo Storico di Aeronautica Militare Italiana
The aeronautics museum at Vigna di Valle (Lago di Bracciano) is dedicated to the exhibition and preservation of italy’s aeronautic history. The oldest aeronautic site in the country, its history dates back to 1907, when the first Italian airship (a dirigibile) took off from its runway. The museum’s permanent collection of motors, historic aircrafts and documenta

Getting there:

To get to the town of Bracciano, the Roma-Viterbo train line departs from the Roma-Ostiense and St Peters stations. (www.trenitalia.com).
Buses leave hourly from the Lepanto bus depot, near Prati's Cola di Rienzo shopping area and the Lepanto A Line Metro stops.

To get to the town of Anguillara, the Roma-Viterbo train line's Aguillara stop is about four kilometers from the town center, with shuttle bus service from the station. The Lepanto-Bracciano bus service stops directly in the town center.

To get to Trevignano Romano take the bus to Bracciano then transfer to a local bus arriving at Trevignano.

By car:
From Corso Francia  take the SS Flaminia to the G.R.A. (The freeway that  forms a ring around Rome), exit onto the SS. Cassia-Veientana-Viterbo highway towards Viterbo. Continue for 35 km finally exiting at Settevene (signs indicate Trevignano, Bracciano, Anguillara, etc.) and turn left crossing the viaduct. Follow the curving country road of Settevene Palo until you arrive at a bivio with further indication (Bracciano, Anguillara, Trevignano).

Coming through the city, the Via Cassia brings you to all three towns. From Corso Francia take the Cassia (bear to your left at the fork where the Cassia and Flaminia intersect off Corso Francia).. Follow the Cassia past an area called La Storta. Continue several kilometres and take a left at the Braccianense. From there, continue to Bracciano, Anguillara or Trevignano.

VITERBO

Just 100 kilometers from Rome, Viterbo is a one of the best preserved medieval towns in central Italy, with a fascinating history. Built at the at the base of Monte Cimini, the town, which is enclosed in a 12th century wall, is surrounded by rich agriculture lands, Renaissance and Baroque villas, medieval villages, Etruscan necropoli and thermal baths.  

The central square is dominated by the cathedral and the splendid Palazzo dei Papi, the palace of the popes. In 1257, when anti-papal hostility drove Alexander IV from Rome, he enlarged the Viterbo Bishop's Palace to create a suitable residence. The Gothic structure with its imposing staircase and wide loggia, is breathtaking. Looking over the valley below, the loggia is formed by a series of seven arcades decorated with crests, and enclosing a fountain. Viterbo was the seat of five subsequent popes, and remained part of the papal states until 1870. With such an illustrious history, the city attracted its share of important churches and noble families. The Chigi and Farnese built magnificent structures there. Today it's a town of art galleries, charming shops, restaurants and cafes. You'll want to wander through the San Pellegrino quarter, an intact 12th century neighborhood, with medieval houses, arches, fountains and piazzas.

Where to eat:

'L Richiastro
A rustic trattoria in the courtyard of a medieval house, with an enormous fireplace, serves typical local cuisine.
Via della Marroca 16 tel 0761 228009
Closed Wednesdays and Sunday dinner. No credit cards.
La Torre
An osteria and adjoining enoteca well-stocked with a variety of wines, serves simple but beautifully prepared dishes using seasonal ingredients from the local farms, and fresh fish from nearby Lake Bolsena.
Via della Torre 5 tel 0761 226467
Closed Sundays, and throughout July and August
Porta Romana
Local dishes prepared by the proprietor, a spry 84 year-old woman, who cooks with an unerring loyalty to tradition.
Via della Bontà 12 tel 0761 307118
Closed Sundays.

Where to Stay:
B & B dei Papi
A comfortable bed and breakfast in a medieval palace in Viterbo’s historic center, walking distance from the Palazzo dei Papi, restaurants, shopping and major transportation. Rooms are furnished with telephone, TV, private bathrooms and air conditioning.
Suites €90; doubles €80; singles €50
Via del Ginnasio 8 tel 0761 309 039

Getting There:
By car: Take exit five from the GRA (Grande Raccordo Anulare) to the SS 2 (the Cassia Bis and the Cassia), which takes you directly to Viterbo. Or take exit ten from the GRA to the toll highway A1, continue to the Orte exit and follow the signs to Viterbo.
By train: Frequent trains go to Viterbo from Ostiense station, Rome. Alternatively, you can take a train from Rome's Stazione Termini and change at either Ostiense or Orte station. Click here for train schedules and fares.
The Metropolitana Roma Nord line goes to Viterbo from Piazzale Flaminio every 25 minutes from about 6 am - 11 pm. It's 2 hour and 25 minute ride. Click here for more information

Side trip: Cività Bagnoregio
Reaching this beautiful medieval village is an experience in itself. It's accessible only by a foot bridge suspended across a deep ravine. The village gates, flanked by two lions sculpted in tufo, open onto a magical place, locked in time, a village without cars. Not only is it impossible to bring one in over the foot bridge, but motor vehicles are prohibited, in any case, because of the fragile ecology. Known as “the dying town,” Cività Bagnoregio is likely to disappear eventually, as centuries of rain, mixed with falling sand and clay erode the bed rock. Once a thriving commercial center, the village today is inhabited by artists and craftsmen and survives on tourism. In past centuries, two powerful earthquakes destroyed most of the ancient structures.  But the medieval flavor of the village endures, with food shops and osterie offering local wines, cheese, salamis and sausages. The cathedral, built on the ashes of a fifth century church, is dedicated to the Madonna of the Snow and is the home of a parchment bible said to have belonged to the 13th century Saint Bonaventura, the town's most illustrious native son.

Where to eat:
Osteria del Ponte
A family-owned restaurant just a few meters from the access bridge. The cuisine is typical of the area: abbacchio (roast lamb), roasted potatoes, wild boar, pasta dishes and homemade desserts.
Localita Mercatello 11  tel 0761 793565  Reservations necessary on weekends; closed Sunday dinner.



Side trip: Villa Lante, Bagnaia
Only four kilometers from Viterbo, Bagnaia combines a medieval borgo and renaissance city, both dominated over by the clock tower that rises above the city’s walls. Since the 13th century Bagnaia was known as a preferred summer residence for cardinals and men of the church. Villa Lante is a splendid 16th century resdience, surrounded by formal gardens landscaped during the Mannerist period.  The villa was constructd by Cardinal De Gambara in 1566, with architectural plans drawn up by Jacopo Barozzi, better known as Vignola. Its geometrical landscape design was inspired by the Belvedere Palace at Vatican City, while the fountains and waterfalls are inspired the fabulous waterworks at Villa de'Este in Tivoli. 
Visiting hours: 9 am 4:30 pm; closed Mondays and major holidays.

Side trip: Palazzo Farnese at Caprarola
One of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture outside Florence, the palace was the summer residence of Cardinal Alessandro Farnese.  Designed by Antonio da Sangallo in 1520, the construction of the buiding is based on a pentagonal plan. In 1559, the project was handed over to to Vignola (1507 – 1573).  Vignola’s design included wide terraces that opened onto a panoramic countryside. The palace's rooms are decorated with period furnishings and frescoes by brothers Taddeo and Federico Zuccari. Another important building on the grounds is the splendid orto (adjacent to themain building) begun by Giacomo Del Duca in 1565 and finished by Rainaldi in 1630.
Palzzo Farnese  Caprarola (16km from Viterbo)   Open 9 am – 4 pm tel 0761 646 052 or 0761 646 368  

Side Trip: Parco dei Monstri (Monster Park)
Bomarzo Park, a 16th century villa with grotesque stone sculptures of monstrous porportions, depiciting mythological personalities and creatures taken from classic fables: Pergasus, Hercules, Neptune, Cera. Prince Pier Francesco Orsini built the villa in 1552. Mourning the death of his wife, Giulia Farnese, he erected a temple and statuary in her honor on the grounds. The villa was designed by Architect Pirro Ligorio. Giovanni Bettini purchased the property in 1954, eventually opening it to the public. The park can be a fun outing for curious place for children.
Open daily year round, 8 am to sunset tel 0761 924 029 

THE SANNIO

Just north of Naples and inland from the popular resorts of the Amalfi coast, the Sannio is a fertile region of rolling hills, vineyards and olive groves that stretches into neighboring Molise. Roman ruins stand on distant hills, and frequent signs point out the many vineyards. It's a poor region but its appeal is that it's off the tourist trails, and unlike more affluent Umbria and Tuscany, no buses pull into the ancient piazzas. There are no "menu turistico" signs, and the only language you'll hear in the streets and vicoli is Italian. Driving through the countryside in the fall, you'll see fields covered in red. These are apples, picked early and laid out to ripen on the ground, turned every 14 days to create a hardy fruit, which will keep all winter and which makes an exceptional jam.


What to Do:
Good wines and hearty local cuisine are the main attractions of the Sannio. There are six DOC wines in the region, including Falenghina and Greco d Tufo. Campagnia is the home of the one true buffalo mozzarella and there are many other wonderful local cheeses, as well as local prosciutto and other cured meats. There are olive oils and honey to be sampled, vineyards to tour. For those with a passion for artiginal crafts there are the ceramics producing villages of San Lorenzello and Cerreto and the historic silk factory at San Leucio, closer to Caserta.

Benevento was the major center of the Samnites, a people who lived contemporaneously with the Etruscans. Today, it is the still the most important town of the area. It's rich in history, with many ancient structures, among them,
the Arch of Titus, built in 114;
a Roman amphitheater built by Hadrian, and later expanded by Caracalla;
the Rocca dei Rettori, the ancient castle of Benevento, on the site of a former Benedictine monastery, it got its current name in the Middle Ages, when it became the seat of the papal governors, the Rettori;
the church of Santa Sofia with its 12th century cloisters; and the cathedral, which was built from the 11th to the 13th centuries.

The spectacular hilltop Abbey of Montecasino should be at the top of your list. Founded by Saint Benedict in 529 on the ruins of
a Roman Temple of Apollo, it has survived sacking by the Longobards of Zoton in 577, the Saracens in 883, an earthquake in 1349, and the bombings of World War II in 1944. The grand and ornate Basilica Cathedral was rebuilt after the war according to the original 17th and 18th century design using much of the orignal marble. A cloister attributed to Bramante (which is in any case, stunning) was built in 1595. And the upper balcony of the Paradiso Loggio offers a breathtaking view of the countryside. The benefactors cloister built according to a plan by Sangallo in 1513, honors the many popes and bishops who supported the abbey throughout its history.

Geopaleontologico Park at Pietroroja Fossils of animals killed by toxic gases as long as 200 million years ago have been discovered in an area only a few meters from the center of the village. In 1993, the fossil of a baby dinosaur, was found. It's a great experience for archeology buffs.

The village of Pietralcina is the home of Padre Pio, who was born there in 1887. In 1918 while praying in the choir loft of the Church he is said to have received the stigmata. After the Second World War, he established a hospital at San Giovanni Rotondo. He was beatified in 2002.

Where to Stay:

Your best bet is to chose one of the many local agriturismi. These working farms provide charming rooms and meals at bargain prices- room and board can cost as little as €60 a night. Two to consider:

La Vecchia Torre
San Nicola Manfredi
Offers seven rooms with private bath, a pool, restaurant with local cuisine prepared using ingredients grown on the farm, archery, hunting and horseback riding.
www.lavecchiatorre.com

Agriturismo Tufini
San Giorgio del Sannio
Offers four mini flats, each with two rooms and a private bathroom. It's kid-friendly with a merry-go-round, swimming pool, riding school.
www.tufini.it

The Sannio Experts:
American Barbara Goldfield and her Italian husband Federico Studer, are welcoming, friendly people who live in the Sannio and know its history and its secrets. They are a vital resource to anyone who wants to visit the Sannio, and indispensible to those who don't feel comfortable speaking Italian. They will plan an itinerary tailored to your interests, take you on tours of the vineyards, olive oil presses, or hike with you through the beautiful wooded hills. They are affiliated with an important cooking school, run by chef Bernardo Lombardo at Terra Conca, one of the most prestigious restaurants in Italy, and can help you plan a cooking vacation at the school. You can even stay on the grounds of the restaurant and farm, in charming rooms decorated with antiques.
Their website is loaded with great photos and information:
www.savourthesannio.com


Getting There: Take the A1 motorway from Rome towards Naples. Get off at the Caianello exit and follow the signs towards the village of your choice. Driving time about two and a half hours.

NAPLES AND THE PRESEPE
The Presepe is an Italian tradition, something like the Christmas crêche on steroids. Not just the manager scene, but the wise men, the livestock, and often, the entire surrounding village, complete with animated workers, waterfalls, bridges and brooks, anything you can imagine. They can be elaborate home decorations occupying an entire table, signed works designed by artists, even living sculptures with real people dressed to play all the parts. In Southern Italy, the real home of the presepe is Naples,. It's less than 90 minutes on the train from Rome, and a real Christmas experience to walk along the via San Gregorio Armeno a Spaccanapoli where stand after stand offers every sort of Presepio item. While you're there you can enjoy the best genuine Neapolitan pizza for lunch, then stop in at the Galleria Umberto, one of the world's most beautiful shopping malls, built in the 19th century with a soaring glass atrium. The Galleria's cafès are a great choice for relaxing over a coffee and that delicious Neapolitan pastry the Babà, a wonderful cake with rum sauce. From here, you can walk up to the enormous Piazza Plebiscito, and then to the edge of the Bay of Naples for a breath of sea air, before grabbing a cab back to the train station.

Via San Gregorio Armeno a Spaccanapoli This street, within walking distance of the train station, is presepe central, a market dedicated to Christmas. In the heart of the historic center, the Spaccanapoli is the stuff of song and legend. You'll find everything along this street from the sublime to the ridiculous—from exquisitely hand-carved figurines, to presepe statuettes made to resemble celebrities of every sort. A lovely stroll takes you from Piazza San Domenico Maggiore and the Tribunali, through Via San Biagio dei Librai to Via San Gregorio Armeno.

Chiesa di S. Lorenzo Maggiore
This is the home of the miniature presepe, which has to be seen to be believed, carved inside a nutshell.

Piazza S. Gaetano
If you're lucky (timetables are unreliable at best) you'll be in town to see the live presepe in this picturesque square.

Click here for an interactive map of Naples.

Great Neapolitan Pizza:

Trianon Pizzeria
A Neapolitan classic, open since 1923, this spacious restaurant on three floors is recommended by locals as the best pizza in the historic center. Run by four generations of the Leone family,
.Via Pietro Colletta, 42/46 (near the Tribunali, just off the Via Umberto)
Tel. 081 553 9426
www.pizzeriatrianon.com
Pizzeria del Presidente
Via Tribunali . Steps away from San Gregorio Armeno, the place can be crowded. It changed its name a few years back when it was visited by then President Bill Clinton.

WEEKEND IN THE SNOW

Just eighty kilometers northeast of Rome, in the southern Rieti mountain range, bordered to the south and east by the Velino Valley, soars Mount Terminillo, the highest elevation in Lazio, part of the Apennines central mountain chain. In 1938 a group of architects and engineers developed a ski resort on the mountain, which became the playground for Rome’s aristocracy. More recently, it became known as la montagna romana for its close proximity to Rome. Terminillo doesn't compete with Cortina D’Ampezzo, the chic resort in the northern Alps nor can it boast the wide rambling slopes of Selva di Val Gardena but at 1,600 to 2,000 meters above sea level, with narrow precipitous slopes, some walled between fragrant maple and oak, the mountain challenges even the most expert skier.  The slopes are serviced by ski chairs, ski-lifts and a funicular. The cable lift for downhill skiers travels along 761 meters beginning at an elevation of 1630 arriving at 1868 meters. A few other ski chairs transport skiers as high as 2101 meters. Cross-country trails, ranging from 2,500 to 5,000 meters in length can be entered from three trails: the Faggi at Plan de Valli, Cinque Confini on the outer road 10/A and Piazzale Le Malga at Campofrogna which leads towards the town of Leonessa, located at the foot of Mount Terminillo. Snowboarding, is also available through the Togada Snowpark Snowboard Club Terminillo and the Scuola Italiana Sci and Snowboard.

Ski Schools:
Scuola di Sci Cinque Confini  (cross country)
(39) 338 404 5008  (39) 368 54 35 86
Enrico Faraglia (cross country)
(39) 347 356 8534
Scuola di Sci Terminillo  (39) 0746 261 227
Scuola S.A. S. Piccola Balta   (39) 0746 261 289
Scuola Italien Sci e Snowboard S.P.  (39) 0746 258 080

How to get there:
Train: Rome Termini to Rieti. Bus service from station arrives at Terminillo. tel 0746 203 143
Public bus: Buses leave from Stazione Tiburtina about every 15 minutes. The journey takes one hour and 40 minutes. CO.TRA.L. Rieti tel 0746 201113
Car: Highway A1 to Roma NORD, then SS4 Salaria to Rieti - Terminillo.

Where to Stay:
Hotel Cristallo is one of Terminillo’s more exclusive hotels with a mountainside location and luxurious amenities: restaurant, sauna, fitness center, solarium, hydro-therapy, massage, shiatsu and parking.
www.hotel-cristallo.com
Hotel Ristorante La Luccila
The nearest hotel facility to the slopes, with beautiful views. Restaurant, bar, elevator service for the disabled, terrace, solarium.
www.hotellalucciola.com

Click these links for more information in Italian:
www.monteterminillo.net
www.terminillo.it

L’Aquila
Travelling a bit further to the Abruzzo region, there are a number of resorts in the Gran Sasso mountain range, the highest elevation point of the central Apennine Mountains. Campo Felice offers a choice of snow activities from alpine skiing to cross-country, snowboarding, tobogganing, snow-rafting and dog-sledding with ski chairs, ski lifts and funicular service to some downhill runs ranging between 1400 and 2064 meters. The snow is well maintained, combining artificial snow with the natural snowfall.

How to get there:
Take the autostrada A24 Roma-L'Aquila to Castello di Tornimparte Campo Felice exit at Km 84,500

Where to stay:
Hotel Campo Felice
Nestled against the mountain, the hotel offers a restaurant, a pizzeria, an ice skating rink and a wellness center.
www.hotelcampofelice.com
Rifugio Alantino
The hotel sits in the midst of cross-country ski paths. Amenities include TV, bar, solarium, pizza corner. Sleigh rental and ski school services. The restaurant, Il Briganti, serves cuisine typical to the area.
www.rifugioalantino.com

Ovindoli is the home of the ancient community of the Marsi, the first known inhabitants of Abruzzo. Located in the Sirente-Velino, a national reserve in the Apennine Mountains, it towers 1375 meters above sea level. Non-skiers, including hikers, trekkers and mountain climbers, enjoy exploring the protected area with its rich variety of deer, wolves, wild cats, owls and Marsian bears. Downhill and cross-country skiing took hold here shortly after WWI. In 1959 plans to transform it into a modern ski resort began. Usually abundant in snow, the trails range from 1400 to 2200 meters and unwind over a distance of 22 kilometers.

Where to Stay:
Park Hotel
A large, family friendly hotel with restaurant, cafe.
www.parkhotelovindoli.it/it/hotel.asp
Magnola Palace Hotel
Family friendly, the hotel offers a wide variety of activities from games for the kids to a disco and cabaret nights for the grown-ups. Sauna, massage, gym, turkish bath, solarium, restaurant. Inexpensive.
www.magnolapalacehotel.com

Other ski resorts in the Abruzzi Mountains, smaller and less engaging yet ideal for beginners:
Campo di Giove is serviced by one cable car, 3 ski lifts, 6 ski runs, ski school, hotels and guesthouse.
Passo San leonardo is serviced with 2 ski lifts and 6 ski runs
Passo Lanciano – Majelletta is small but it's the only ski resort with slopes overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The facility offers 9 ski lifts 10 ski runs and a ski school plus 5 hotels.

THE CASTELLI ROMANI

The Alban Hills, just 45 minutes southwest of Rome, have been a favorite vacation spot for centuries, the site of villas and palaces built by the rich and powerful as retreats from the heat of Rome's summers. The hills are covered with vineyards, and until recently, horse-drawn carts loaded with barrels arrived in Rome daily to deliver the cheap local wines. Today, the Castelli Romani produce many more than respectable vintages as well as excellent olive oils, an a variety of fruits and vegetables. It's an area of rolling farmlands, ancient villages, and monuments, whose intriguing history dates as far back as the Neolithic era.

Albano Laziale, the largest town in the region, was known in ancient times as Alba Longa. It was the capital of the Latini population, founded in  the 1st millennium B.C., and the the legendary birthplace of Romolo and Remos, the twin brothers who are said to have founded Rome in 753 B.C. In the Aeneid, Virgil describes Alba Longa as the link between the Mediterranean civilizations of Troy and Latium, and later Rome. 
It's location, just off the ancient Appia Antica road, made it a convenient destination for the Roman empowers. In the theirs century, Septimus Severus established established a military camp there to house the Roman legion’s reserve army. During the Middle Ages, the city was abandoned. In the 12th century it became a feudal territory belong the Savelli family, who controlled most of the Castelli territories until 1697 when the lands were turned over to the Vatican Apostolate. The Vatican implemented an urbanization plan, constructed palaces, churches, piazzas and municipal centers. By the 18th century, the city has again become a favorite summer residence for affluent Romans, including many in the church hierarchy.

What to see:
Santa Maria della Rotonda
Modeled on the Pantheon in Rome, is constructed over the remains of a ninfeo from Emperor Domitian’s villa. The church was consecrated in 1060, but in succeeding centuries, embellishments were added. In 1938, all of this was stripped away and the church was restored to its original splendor. Over the central altar there is an ancient icon of the Madonna and Child in Byzantine style, which was repainted in the 15th century, while in the vaults to the right of the altar there are traces of wall-paintings, of which the best preserved one, datable to the 14th century.

Roman Amphitheater
Built just outside the military camp, during the first decades of the 3rd century, it reached a height of 22 meters. In the Middle Ages, like so many other monuments, the amphitheater was scavenged and bits and pieces of it were used for other structures. At one point, it was used as a Christian cemetery. What's left is the first floor, supported by more than 30 arches, part of the triumphal entrances and the entire cavea.

The Albano Museum
In the neoclassical Villa Ferrajoli, set in the midst of a park of giant magnolias with interior frescoes by Giovanbattista Caretti inspired by classical and Renaissance art. The 23 exhibition rooms display archeological finds from the Paleolithic the Middle Ages.

The Baths of Cellomaio
Smaller but no less preserved than their counterpart in Rome, these baths were also built by the Emperor Caracalla as a means of appeasing the legionnaires after his brother Geta was murdered.

Click here for more information in English about Albano

Grottaferrata
The town’s history evolves around the founding of the San Nilo Abbey (1004) by two monks, Rossano  Calabro and Bartholomeo di Raossano who followed the teachings of San Basil Magno, archbishop of Casarea in the IV century. Often during the Middle Ages monasteries played a vital cultural and economic role in communities, this one was no exception. The monastery of San Nilo lies at the cultural core of Grottaferrata. The abbey  was founded fifty years before the advent of the great schism that divided the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches in the Middle Ages, and Byzantine-Greco liturgical practices are still carried out there today.

San Nilo is built on the ruins of am ancient roman villa overlooking the panorama del Vallone. The abbey is  enclosed behind a 15th century wall punctuated by four soaring towers. Cardinal Giuliano della  Rovere (later Pope Julius II) constructed a moat in 1480 and commissioned noted architect Antonio Sangallo to construct the portico.
The monastery's antique scriptorium where manuscripts were created, is also known for a particular style of calligraphy called "tachigrafia greca silbibica niliana." In the middle of the last century, a printing press was installed for the production of liturgical books for the Eastern Church. The monastery is also the custodian of the valuable manuscript of the first monks of San Nilo. The Codice Atlantico di Leonardo was restored behind these walls. On the monastery grounds the Museo in Palazzo del Commendatario houses objects and artifacts excavated from pre-historic and Roman eras, Greek and Roman statues, sarcophagi, cenery urns. 

What to see: 

Abbazia of San Nilo
The Monastery and Church are open to public visits daily from 8:30 am – noon, and 3:30 –5:30 pm
Guided visits Saturday and Sunday, 3:30 pm
Group reservations necessary tel 340 9619 736

La Chiesa di Sana Maria – 1024 (within the monastery compound)

Romanesque Bell Towers 12th century

Claudius' Villa: built during the Republican period, it is the oldest remaining structure from ancient Rome in this area. During the reign of the Emperor Claudius, a sort of environmentalist lobbying effort was initiated to halt its construction, since it was built on the sacred site of ancient Alba Longa, founding fathers of both the Latini and Roman cultures. What remains of the villa’s foundation lies on the park grounds of Villa Santa Caterina.

Doric Nymphaeum, located along the lake, dates to the middle of the 1st century B.C. Its origin unknown.
Diana's Baths, built by Domitian. the baths were inspired by the baths of Tiberius at Sperlonga on Lazio’s southern shores. The Baths were transformed from a grotto at the edge of the lake and converted into a nymphaeum. Pope Alexander VII, used it as a depository.

Where to Eat:

Da Nando
Located in the historic center, Da Nando specializes in Roman cuisine and offers a wide choice of meat dishes — deer, rabbit, lamb, beef, veal, poultry— as well as lake and sea fish.
Via Roma 4 tel  06 945 9989

Castel Gondolfo
This picturesque hideaway tucked in  the Alban Hills looks out onto Lake Albano and the sweeping Alban landscape has been a favorite getaway, known in contemporary times as the summer residence of the Popes. During Middle Ages, the territory was in the hands of feudal lords. Then in 1597, through the Camera Apostolica purchase of the properties was arranged, passing ownership into the hands of Catholic Church. Archeological excavation of tools, stone artifacts, and the remains of prehistoric pachyderms date activity in the area as far back as the Paleolithic Age. The discovery of Millstone Village in 1987 identifies that inhabitants of the area passed from ancient practices of hunting through farming and into the Bronze Age

Cardinal Maffeo Barberini, late Pope Urban IIX, began the transformation of the Savelli family compound, the Rocca Di Savelli into the Papal Summer Palace. The residence built by Carlo Maderno, incorporated the medieval Savelli castle and ancient ruins into the complex. Pope Alexander VII completed the expansion, commissioning Gian Lorenzo Bernini  to design the main square with the palace posed center stage, flanked by the Church of San Tommaso da Villanova also designed by Bernini (1658 – 1661). In 1825 n French painter Jean-Baptiste Camille Carot painted a splendid landscape of the area, capturing the serenity of the a bucolic countryside. Castel Gandolfo remains one of the least populated towns in the area with little more than 10,000 habitants. Ristorante Bucci offers a terrace with a panoramic view.

What to do:
Castel Gandolfo Country Club has an 18-hole golf course equipped with restaurant, bar, swimming, tennis court, cinema  and conference room.
Country Club Castel Gandolfo,  Via S. Spirito, 14
Around the lake: Pedal boat rental, windsurf, swimming, canoeing, bicycling, trekking, horse-back riding and archeological  walks.

Where to Eat:

Antico Ristorante Pagnanelli
Four generations of the Pagnanelli family have owned and operated this elegant country restaurant since 1882. Located next door to the Papal Summer Residence, Pagnanelli offers interior dining on three levels. Outdoor dining from their beautiful flowered terrace with a spectacular view of the lake, is nothing less than memorable. Much care goes into the preparation of foods. Fresh vegetables are brought in daily from the family’s garden. The menu offering local and regional cuisine, includes a variety of meats and fish. The restaurant has an extensive wine list that includes many of Frascati’s superior labels.
Via Gramsci 4   tel 06 936 00004  www.pagnanelli.it

Ariccia
The attraction in Ariccia is the Baroque Palazzo Chigi, designed by Bernini for Pope Alexander VII.The extravagant period interior is open to the public. Some of the scenes of the film "Il Gattopardo" (the Leopard, which stars Burt Lancaster) were filmed here. Gian Lorenzo Bernini was commissioned to re-construct the palace. The Chigi Palace Museo Barocco was founded in 1999 from paintings bequeathed to the by the late art critic Maurizio Fagiolo dell’Arco. The collection includes works by Cavalier d’Arpino, Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Pietro della Cortona, Il Baciccio, Andrea Sacchi and others. Palazzo Chigi in Ariccia  Piazza di Corte 14  tel 06 93 30 053

Aricia is a popular destination on the weekends for Romans escaping the chaos of the city. And it's famous for its porchetta. Once in town you'll be immediately recognized as an outsider and forcefully dragged into one of the osterie-trattorie where you'll let yourself go in front of so much temptation. Then you'll just want to hang around sluggishly all day, take a walk in town view the spectacular panorama over the Latium plain.

Where to eat:
Ariccia is know as the”pork “ capital of the Castelli Romani. You won’t need to hunt for the many vendors selling slices of freshly roasted pork around the city. They truly make themselves visible. The many small osterie serve popular local dishes such as fagioli, pasta, cinghiale (wild boar).

Velletri
Emperor Augustus grew up in the noble house of the Gens Ottavia in Velletri. The first churches were built in the 10th and llth centuries. when the first churches were built. The town was devastated by heavy bombing in 1944 but was immediately rebuilt. One can still see the Cathedral of Saint Clemente and the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate, both dating to the 14rh century. The Diocesan Museum is worth a visit. Located in a former seminar dating the 15th century, it was founded by Cardinal Basilio Pampilhi in 1927, to house works from the Treasury of the Capitol and the Cathedral of Velletri. The collection includes several works by Gentile da Fabriano, including the "Virgin and Child with Angels" completed in 1427. The Camellia Festival which takes place every March, includes displays from growers, sales and guided tours of local gardens.

Frascati
This charming village is an easy train ride from Rome's Stazioni Termini, and many people actually commute. The leafy streets are cool and pleasant on a summer day, and there are plenty of trattorie offering the local specialties. You can also pick